
That's a cool image hey? I really liked it anyway..
One thing that I'm becoming aware of in my life, is reasons. Motives if you like.
I'll use surfing as an example, purely because I'm a surfer, and I spend alot of time surfing.
In surfing, the majority seem to have lost the essence, or soul if you like?
They surf because it gives them social status, or maybe because they're good at it, or maybe because it gives them a cat walk, or maybe because the "surf industry" has promoted surfing to be some mega sport full of Demi-Gods.
Then there's the minority, that surf because they love it, it gives them an escape, a partner, a mistress, a passion, a love, a rush, and a feeling that can't be beaten.
I'm really not a terribly talented surfer, maybe if I did what everyone else does and concentrated on surfing "high performance" surfboards as well as I could, I might get somewhere.
But I find that boring.
I like to chop and change things around a bit. Experiment if you like?
My motives for surfing is purely because I love to do it, its my passion in life.
There isn't a feeling in the world that comes close to beating that rush you get when the wave walls up in front of you, and all you do is race, trimming high to low, so much speed.
I wonder if the people that do it for other reasons get the same feeling?
I find that whenever I'm sad, the one thing that will never reject me, is the ocean.
She is the one thing that always has my heart, we have terribly shit days, and truly magnificent days, but I will never leave her, nor she leave me.
She is my mistress. Once your heart is captured, you can never have it back.
I like to question my motives for doing things. If your not doing it because you love it, or you want it, then you really have no reason.
Live a life of passion, worship, and love.
And on this note, I end this brief encounter, by taking my hat off, to the one thing that keeps me sane.
Thankyou Ocean, you are my mistress.
G x