Sunday, September 26, 2010

Sun Burnt




As he bent down to pick up the log, the shirt on his back rubbed on his extreme sunburn.
It was uncomfortable but it was all worth it, just to feel that log in his hands again.
Every time he picked it up, a feeling of joy and anticipation would come upon him.
Every time he picked up his log, it meant only one thing.
Logging.
As he strapped it to his car, his extreme sunburn rubbed once again, and again as he sat in his vehicle, and again as he put on his beaver tail, and again as he paddled for his first wave.
And then there it was, that feeling that makes all the discomfort and pain, all the grovelling in slop, all the wasted drives to the coast worth while.

G x

Thursday, September 9, 2010

A New Wave

A new wave is upon us, it has been for quite some time, and it's not dying, only getting stronger.
Single fins and serial killers are taking over.
Spread the love.
Three fins look out.
Let the fun begin.
G x



The Realms

First there's the past. Then there's the present. Then there's the future.
In my experience people will always tell you what they think you should do with YOUR space in each of the above.
To be honest, there's nothing more annoying, people say "don't listen to it" or "opinions are like arse holes, everyones got them, and they all smell". But to be 100% transparent in the matter, there is nothing more annoying than people bringing up things in your past, and telling you how it was, as they were not you, and no matter how well they know you, they will never know where your head was at, at the time.
And decisions, if we need help with them, we'll ask!
In conclusion, 'Let the past be the past, and live your future, not mine, FUCK OFF!'
My frustration is vented.
Thank you
G x